The Art of Costumes: An Interview with Nicholas Inglis
(Costume preservationist/historian)
Nicholas
Inglis is a long time classic movie fan who then took the passion for them to a
whole new level. Starting in 1995, Nicholas started to recognize the importance
of saving and preserving for the world the costumes that were made for classic
movie masterpieces. Not just buying to have but truly understanding the significance
each holds in our history of cinema and to keep them intact for new generations
to see and enjoy. This constantly growing museum from hats, gowns and much more
is a passion that Nicholas stays true with and now is a preservationist/record
keeper for our adored movie stars, movie studios, motion pictures, and
especially the designers of the era who will never be matched again. Designers
such as Adrian, Edith Head, Walter Plunkett, Helen Rose, Travilla and countless
others made these costumes come to life. The amount of man power that went into
each costume with all details from top to bottom done for each star. Nicholas,
I like to think is an archivist for our glamorous Hollywood past and is keeping
it alive with ensuring these costumes thrive and are seen by many to have new
generations understand and as well become fans of everything classic movies!
Interview by: Mason Williams
·
What made your passion of collecting vintage
film costumes come alive?
It all started with a catalog of entertainment memorabilia
from Christies auction hose sent to me in 1995. The catalog was predominantly
signed photos of the stars but in the last few pages of the catalog were screen
worn costumes and props. Well I was hooked. Up until this time, I had no idea
that you could even collect or own these kinds of treasures.
·
At what age did you start collecting vintage
costumes?
As a teenager I used to write to the stars and got replies
with signed photos and letters. As a result I ended up collecting autographed
photos and signed documents of the golden age of film. It was in 1995 that I
got into the costume side of collecting. I was about 25.
·
Was there a particular film or actor that got
you into this area of collecting?
No it has never really been about the actor or the film. It
was always the concept of a piece having been made for film, having come from
the studios, having gone through the film process up to the final part of that
process being its final use on the screen.
·
What was the very first costume you acquired?
The first costume I ever acquired, were a pair of grey
slacks worn by Ava Gardner in the 1956 MGM classic “Mogambo”. It was just a
pair of trousers but to me it marked the beginning of this great collecting
journey. I could hold it up to the screen with the film going and say “wow I am
holding that in my hands”. It’s still a great thrill to receive pieces and as
long as I keep getting that thrill, I will keep collecting.
·
Is there any actors/actress’s/designer/film that
you still have not acquired and would love to own?
Every collector I think has a wants list and I still have
mine. For me its great ladies that I keep hoping for, Marlene Dietrich, Greta
Garbo, Joan Crawford, Mae West. They are out there and come to market from time
to time but they always do very well.
·
What is your favorite costume in your collection
and why?
My favorite costume is a red velvet two piece costume with
fox fur trim worn by Barbra Streisand in the 1968 Columbia Pictures “Funny
Girl”. I love it for many reasons in terms of the design, the look, how it
appears on screen and of course who wore it.
The gown is amazing to look at as a collector, it is also in great
condition and displays well. The gown also came direct from Ms Streisand
herself when she sold many of the costume pieces she had collected over the
years. The money raised from those sales went to the many charities that Barbra
is associated with.
·
Where does your love of classic films come from?
I think it’s a family thing. I group up watching the classics,
had them discussed with me and was taught about the stars and star systems. I
also had an aunt and uncle that owned movie cinema so got to see the film
growing up and at a very early age.
·
How would you respond to the following question,
“What is the importance of restoring & preserving vintage costumes
important?
Costumes are to me, works of art. They are pieces of art to
be treasured. There are so many facets that go into making a costume, from the
design phase, the designer, the materials, the period of the costume, the
workmanship that the final result on the screen appears effortless. I have
always had a lot of respect and admiration for the costume designer and the art
of costume design.
In reality, costumes were not made to last. They were made
for a single purpose being to dress the star in order to perform their role on
the screen. After that, the role of the costume had ended. It is really because
of a handful of collectors who very early on, saw the importance of these
pieces as treasures and really as part of cinema history that they have been
recognized and preserved.
·
What are some messages that you want to impart
with both your successful blog and vintage costume collection?
I enjoy doing the blog and discussing the art of costume. I
try to show them in their best light and with corresponding photos of the
costume being worn by the performer and how they appeared on screen. I have
received some wonderful compliments from followers of the blog and those
interested in film costume, there are some wonderful people out there and it is
great to see so much interest in film costume.
·
Are any of your pieces been or planned to be on
display to the public?
I hope to display these treasures as part of an exhibit for
the public. I think that treasures such as these need to be enjoyed and not
tucked away in boxes. I urge all collectors to make the effort of taking them
out and putting them on display on any scale. They deserve to be enjoyed.
·
What is the most memorable story regarding
obtaining one of the costumes?
Not so much a story relating to one costume but to a group
of costumes that I bought from a wonderful gentleman who I only had the
pleasure of meeting and chatting for a very short time but it is something I
will always remember. The way he talked about costumes and collecting is the
way I always feel about it all. It is something common to collectors and when
you come upon it, you recognize it right away. He was not only a collector but
he got great joy in displaying his treasures for the public to enjoy. This is
what it is all about. Not only collecting but also being able to show them to
those who appreciate the magic of film costume.
It is to the collectors of yesterday who the collectors of
today owe a great deal. If it weren’t for them, the majority of these treasures
would no longer exist. The sad reality is that these treasures will one day be
no more. Fabrics and textiles will eventually deteriorate and disappear. Mabye
not in our lifetime or the next, but eventually. Until then each collector does
his or her bit to preserve and conserve until it is time to pass on to the next
collector.
·
What is the process of properly preserving
vintage costumes?
To preserve a costume, you have to be aware of what you
have. You have to start to know fabrics, what makes a up a fabric, which ones
are sturdy and can be stored hanging, which are not and must be reclined. Dirt
is also an enemy of the costume. They must be expertly cleaned and stored in
order to ensure their future. The reality is that costumes are man made fibers
and will eventually disintegrate and disappear. Until that time, it is up to
the collectors of today and tomorrow to continue to seek out, identify and
preserve cinematic history.
·
Please share your three favorite costumes and
the story behind them.
I have a pair of boots that were designed for Judy Garland
to be worn in the film “Annie Get Your Gun”. Garland was dismissed from the
production and replaced by Betty Hutton so only the costumes and little of the
original filming remains in terms of Garland and the film. I was lucky enough
to pick up the boots on eBay. It was just one of those cases of right place and
right time.
I bought a Lana Turner costume worn in the 1956 period drama
“Diane”. The costume is worn in a scene where she teaching the prince, played
by Roger Moore, how to fence. I showed the costume to Lana’s daughter Cheryl
Crane who told me the great stories of her being on set the day of the shooting
of that scene and about the costume. It is great when you get these stories to
keep with the costumes as they really bring them back to life.
I have a costume worn by Judy Garland in the 1948 MGM
musical ‘Easter Parade’. It is such a wonderful film and the costume is worn in
two great production numbers, the ‘Fella With An Umbrella’ song and “I love a
Piano’. Whenever I watch the film I am amazed that I have such a wonderful
piece from an MGM musical classic. I have Michael Siewert, an amazing Garland
collector to thank for that one. He has been able to put together one of the
largest collection of Garland costumes in the world. Another example of some of
the great collectors you come across in this hobby.
·
What do you find your most preferable method in
obtaining new pieces for your collection (ie auction houses, eBay, private
estate sales)?
I have found some great treasures on eBay over the years. It
was a lot easier when eBay was starting out as there was less competition for
them, but if you look you can pick up some treasures. Otherwise it is through
the auction houses or through other collectors.
·
Have you ever found a gem of a vintage costume
where the seller had no idea what they had?
I picked up a white satin coat that was lined in bright
orange fabric and totally lined on the inside in orange sequins. It was sold as
a white coat and I picked it up for $50.00. I later found it in the Carol
Channing and Pearl Bailey special “Carol Channing and Pearl Bailey On Broadway”
1969. Pearl Bailey wore it in a medley of songs with Carol Channing including
Hello Dolly. So there are treasures out there to be had. You can see it here:
·
Do you have a particular actor and/or designer
that are your favorite to collect? If so, why?
I don’t have a particular actor however as a collector my
collection is predominantly made up of period costume. In terms of that genre
there was no better than Walter Plunkett. He designed for many memorable films
including ‘Gone With The Wind’ and ‘Singin In the Rain’. I have quite a few
costumes designed by Walter Plunkett and each one is unique in its own special
way. He is truly one of the designed greats.
·
In your opinion with such grand designers in the
golden age of cinema such as: Adrian, Walter Plunkett, Edith Head, Irene
Sharaff, Orry-Kelly etc…who is a personal favorite and why?
As above.
·
As of this moment we have large auctions that were recently held from
huge celebrities such as Debbie Reynolds and the estate of Elizabeth Taylor, is
there anything from those collections that you would love to have as part of
your personal collection and why?
I keep getting drawn to the period pieces, which Debbie
Reynolds seems to have a lot of! I kept my eye out for the period treasures and
was lucky to come away with a few. But yes I do get drawn to the period
treasures. The more over the top the better! As a collector of vintage film
costume, I thought that both auctions were just amazing! My only wish now is
that the items are going into the right hands, to be preserved and displayed for
future generations of film lovers to enjoy.
·
To get to know Nicholas better, who is your
favorite classic actor, actress, film, director, genre and film that captures
that best costumes?
I have always had difficulty in answering the question who
is my favorite actor or actress or what is my favorite film. I like a lot of
performers from a number of films and all for different reasons. I do have
multiple costumes from a number of actors including Elizabeth Taylor, Lana
Turner, Judy Garland, Susan Hayward and Maureen O’Hara so I expect I am drawn
to these stars as performers and their films.
The genre I am most drawn to is the biblical epics. I have
pieces from film such as Cecil B DeMille’s “The Ten Commandments” made in 1956.
If I were to pick a film that captures the best in terms of
costume, it would have to be “Singin In the Rain”. The film goes through a
number of different periods and era’s and very much made the most of the film
color process available at the time. The costumes on screen look amazing. It is a joy to watch on the big screen and
now with these films having been restored to their former glory, the results on
screen are amazing. Plus the costumes are designed by Walter Plunkett so
another great reason to call it one of my favorites in terms of costume.
~ Interviewers Note: Below is one famous outfit in Nicholas
Inglis costume collection. This one is from the 1957 MGM motion picture;
“Raintree County” in which Elizabeth Taylor wore. The famed costume designer
Walter Plunkett designed this gem where we have the gown today in its splendor along
with the original sketch from the designer.
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